Last minute change of plans... Heading to Costa Rica

A shot I took of the road and my bike just before the chicken incident.

My music blast in my iPod as I cruise down the perfect paved road. I see in the distance

3 chickens. When I approached the chickens, one turned back running in the ditch, the other

past the front wheel and was already on the other side of the road... but the stupid chicken,

Ran right into my surfboard! I felt a big bang and I see feathers fly by. I look back in my rear

view mirror and see only 2 chickens. Approaching a small town, I don't dare stopping so I continue to cruise along hoping no one saw the poor chicken wanting to surf.

I could write a whole chapter on how many things I've hit on the road... This was my first chicken!

I don't think he died... but he sure felt what a surfboard on the head feels like.

After spending a night again at Hostal Veraguas in Santiago. I had planned to return to Santa

Catalina for a few more days. Thinking it could be a cool place to spend Christmas and New Years. My camping set up was perfect... the food was great and not too crowed. But the only down side... waves were not so happening.

I decided to pack up and go back anyways, I was craving another shrimp coconut curry from Mama Ines ... so I got a few supplies, including a bottle a fine Panama Rum for $9 bucks!

Leaving mid morning. I cruised along the same road back to Santa Catalina when all

of a sudden, the chicken encounter flashback into my mind. I was just passing by the area where it happen. I looked around for a dead chicken but saw nothing. Maybe a dog got it.

A gut feeling came to me, telling me I should be heading north, not back to where I came from. Santa Catalina was great, but surf wasn't working. Tomorrow is Christmas... I could spend xmas

on the road to Costa Rica. On a new Adventure, a new country. I could also be in Santa Teresa for the New Year, a place I had long wanted to go back to. (one of my favorite spots to surf and still is after so many countries!)

When my gut feeling told me the 3rd time... after riding 90kms!!! only 20 more to go... I turned

around... and made my way back towards Santiago. I didn't mind the ride after all... the road was so much fun to ride.

I came back to the hostel late afternoon. The owner was surprised to see me back so soon - few hours later!

I told her the change of my plans, that I decided to ride to Costa Rica on Christmas day and visit some friends.

Giving myself my own present! perfect surf to come and good friends....

I sent off some emails to my friend Roguer in Dominical Costa Rica and told him I would be there for Xmas dinner with a bottle of Rum. Followed by a restless night trying to sleep from barking dogs. I was anxious to get back on the road.

I felt great about my spontaneous last minute decision and was happy to be back in the saddle to new adventures. I had a long day ahead... ride all the way to Dominical (almost 500 km) with a border crossing in between. To my surprise, the highway was completely dead.

Well after all it's Christmas day!

I was the only one on the road. When I got to the Panama / Costa Border. Everything

was closed, no one around. The only place open to eat was at Burger king on the Panama side. I was starving from a 2 1/2 hour ride so I broke down for a burger and fries... ( yes I felt like shit after)

Thinking I better eat now, the border might take a while.

I was the only one standing in the window to get my stamp out of Panama, the process took 30 seconds... 2 minutes later. I was on my way to Costa Rica border. Last time I was here in 2008. It took 2 hours to go through both borders...

I went to immigration first and got my entry stamp, when the guy asked me if I had a return ticket out of the country, I told him I had a motorbike. So I got my 3 months then told me to go to Aduana for the bike Import.

The cute little lady was nice, very helpful telling me to get millions of photocopies. So I went to get copies... nothing was open on the Costa side so I had to walk back to Panama to get my copies ( 300 meters away)

Waiting for my photocopies to be done in the blasting heat, I spent the last of my american change on a coconut water. I walked back to Costa Rica to find my cute lovely lady replaced by some unfriendly asshole dude...

Not even a "Hola", he immediately ask for my papers. I handed him all my beautiful fresh photocopies and my Passport.

He starts typing away at the keyboard. Then he takes a look at my bike registration papers.

He looks at the back of the page, then the front, several times. Then the computer screen, then the papers, the screen again... it goes on for 5 minutes.

He then gets up and groups around the rest of the office team. They stand there staring at me outside the window, sweat dripping from my dirty and dark tan face. Meanwhile they smile in the AC room, passing around my registration papers.

The "A" guy comes back to his chair, looks again at the screen, then my papers...

" Your paper here says expired in 2008" He explains to me in spanish.

"I know!" this is only for Canada! and I was here in 2009 also was expired... I had no trouble then and I rode around 19 countries! crossed borders over 60 times and never had a problem!"

I tried to explain myself in my best spanish possible that my registrations are only for north America.

" Aqui, Costa Rica, necessito papel - legal! "

Why did this asshole come to the window??? why not this cute little girl that was so friendly!

she would of just giving me my temporary permit with a little flirty gringo look!

No!

This guy wasn't going let me go easy. " No legal, no go"

After 20 minutes trying to convince him there was no way for me to get new papers, only in Canada. He still refused and handed me back my passport with my million of fresh photocopies.

"Get new papers, not expired and come back another time" he says to me.

"Gracias Asshole" merry fuck'n xmas to you too! giving him the finger in my mind...

I went back to my bike hidden around the corner. Two security police and some local kids are checking it out... surfboard to the side, loaded with my bags... Bottle of Rum in my front bag on

top of my headlight.

"Abuelo!" Bueno Rum! The best in Panama" officers says as I sit on my bike searching for my keys.

"Uruguay??? " (they always think I'm from Uruguay, because of the big flag sticker on my tank)

"No - Canada"

"Surf - Surf!!??" making a paddling motion with his harms.

"Pavones! mui bueno Olas..." explaining to me with excitement about this classic surf break near, one of the world's longest left.

Nice moto! Suzuki!!! DR 350!!! bueno Moto...."

I push the start button, it fires like a dream. The 2 police man give me a thumbs up.

"Pura Vida" they say.

"Pura Vida Mae! Feliz Navidad" I reply.

Now a bus was blocking most of the entrance of the Aduana, so I took my chance, Shift in gear and left a dust mark while saluting my 2 officer friends... I wanted to finger the Aduana guy behind the little cage window (but I didn't - incase the cute lady was watching)

and rode away into Costa Rica....

No papers, no problem. After so many miles and border experiences. I rather deal with the

Police; if they stop me... they see my bike and we have bike/surf talk!

Much better then try to deal with the paper work bullshit needed at the

border Aduana Office that takes an hour at least. It sure made the process faster.

It turned out to be a nice Christmas present... now I could leave my bike in the country if I wanted too.

No one will know.

I arrived in Dominical just in time for dinner and see the sunset. Found my friend Roguer's sweet home higher up in the mountains.

It was good to see good friends on Christmas day, it had been years since we had last seen each other.

We opened the Rum and salut a toast to all our friends and family.

Stuffed our appetite over a fat chicken and mash potatoes...

Then more Rum was poured... and I stared telling my wanna surf chicken story...

Pura Vida! - Welcome back to Costa Rica

Got the Rum, iPod, sunscreen, ready for Costa Rica...
Don't need AC up there...
Long ride ahead, fueled up my bike and myself.

At the Panama Border.

My ride... with crazy surfboard, the pimp BMW GS1200 behind was a bit impressed that

I could ride with that thing. When I told him I'de been riding with my board since Uruguay,

he called me Crazy Canadian... then he took my photo.

mmmm... Are we really crazy up there?

I love how you can sometimes get things done for dirt cheap. Here the mechanic took the muffler

right off welding a patch on a hole. All for a 5 bucks! Beats buying a tube of epoxy, which I did several times before... at $3 bucks a tube! Doesn't make sense...

Tire change... $5 bucks, yap... everything is $5 bucks in this shop. Also Oil change.
La Casa de Roguer and Chantelle... home sweet home, For now they rent this beautiful home

300 meters from their property. Slowly building their home from a container. Building green as

possible. Their land has a river, killer mountain views, quiet, fresh air and Ocean views! from far away...
Internet cat...I guess electronics fry yur Brain!

Cracking open the Abuelo Rum from Panama, one of the countries best. I saved it for Xmas

Unfortunately Roguer doesn't drink...( he had a toast), Thanks to him... there was more shots for us.

Thumbs up! check out my new Xmas present Santa brought me... a new blue bike!

Surfing Santa Catalina - Panama

When I crossed over the Panama Canal on the Centennial Bridge, I started to have

flashbacks from the last time I rode here in January 2008 on my way to Panama City to fly

the bike to Colombia. For some reason it felt as if it was only last year... but over 3 years

had gone by since I was in Central America. It felt great to ride the nice easy going straight

Pan American highway. I remembered the large Chinese stores where you can find everything

you need. - At Cheap price! - and cheap quality. Great thing in Panama, beers are only 45 cents.

I arrived in Santiago, a small size city half way up the country. The sun was just setting when I pulled in Hostal Veraquas. I quickly jumped in a cold shower to clean up the highway fumes and had a cold beer dinner and got in touch with the internet world.

The next morning, the sun was shinning - it had been raining for the past few weeks none stop!

My timing was perfect, I was craving some surf so I headed west towards the little fishing town

of Santa Catalina in hope to catch a swell.

The clean and cheap hostel Vera - Aquas in Santiago Panama. A perfect place to stay

on your way to Santa Catalina. visit their website.. .www.hostalveraguas.com

Riding back on this road to Santa Catalina brought back memories when I was last here

with Angela - my riding partner at the time, we rode to Santa Catalina after finding out it

was a surf destination not to miss.

It was also Angela's first time ever riding her own motorbike. Perfect learning road, asphalt, potholes, curves, dirt, little bit of everything in 110 km. We rode here on January 05 2008.

Only this time, the road was in better shape... almost 4 years later.

Vamos a la Playa!!! Surf time...

I was excited to go back to this spot with a surfboard. Last time I was here, I only

got to surf one day - Thanks to some friends we met on the beach and lent me a board

so I could catch a few waves. This time... I was ready with my board.
Not a bad set up for $5 bucks a night. A Canadian couple - my camping neighbors scored

the palapa roof. Luckily for them, since it had been raining everyday.

They said the day I arrived... the rain stopped... sunny 16 style!
A lot more horsepower then my suzuki dr 350!
My base camp - surf in front, Playa Estero. Good thing it didn't rain since I

didn't have a nice Palapa roof...
My only worry was ... the place was closed.
For $8bucks.... giant shrimp a la Coconut Curry... or fresh catch of the day.

Yummi.... I ate breakfast - lunch and diner at this same place. A killer view and

amazing food ( bad ass Brownies too! ) ... Mama Ines Hostal and Restaurant, just before crossing the river to Playa Estero.

The sign says it all!!! Surf'n Shake... but instead I did a shake and Piuk!

After having a banana shake one afternoon... later on that nigh my stomach didn't

feel so good... I'm not sure if I can blame it on the shake, or other food, can't see being anything

else then the milk... I ended up throwing up all night, until my stomach was empty.

The good side of it is I felt pretty light surfing the next day...

My morning breakfast... killer coffee and watermelon juice, view of the waves.

After surf... I come back for an amazing fish wrap.

Local kids walking to Playa Estero
Unfortunately I didn't shoot any action surfing. The waves were small and not many hot surfers out to get good shots. So I spend most of my days in the water surfing... after all, I'de been waiting to surf again since way too long.

My little home...
End of session.
Ride'n surf...
You can rent these pimp cabinas for $35 a night. - Warm Shower!
Local kid Andy climbing to get a coconut
Sunset soccer game on Playa Estero.

Sailing on Fritz the Cat from Colombia to Panama

I was running out of patience after spending the last couple days on board the Meta Comet.

Captain Herve kept delaying the trip back to Panama, now a week had gone by, no bike and NO signs of leaving soon. I'de been anxious to get to Panama so I can surf again. I was also craving a Central America lifestyle, more beaches and sunshine. Colombia gave me many

life challenges and I was ready to move on north. Being stuck on this boat didn't help.

On my third day on the Meta Comet. I was sipping on my morning coffee when I saw Fritz the Cat anchored 50 meters away from us. A 50 foot Catamaran. I asked the captain; Fritz, when he was leaving for San Blas Islands and to Panama.... " In a few hours he says - Comon, you come with us", he yells out in his Austrian accent.

I jump in the canoe and paddle out to his boat to pay him a visit and see about negotiating a price.

I met Fritz several months before in Villa de Leyva, a beautiful Colonial town near Bogota. We exchanged several emails regarding sailing with him back to Panama. His price was a little higher then some other boats, but he had a good reputation, great cook and good captain. Not to forget a killer 50 foot catamaran!

After explaining to him my situation with Captain Herve and the Meta Comet, he gave me a last minute fair price so I jumped for the deal.

I paddled back to the Meta Comet, psyked to get going. I woke up Captain Herve to announce him the bad news. - Asked for my money back ( luckily I did get it)

I told him I was changing boat and could no longer wait for him to leave.

"I told you we leave Tomorrow" he says...

A week ago, it was in a few days, then a few days after, it was tomorrow, then tomorrow was tomorrow... I wanted to hear, we leave NOW!

An Captain Fritz said the Magic word.... we leave NOW!

At noon, in the middle of a down pour, Captain Fritz pulled over next to the Meta Comet and we loaded my bike on board * Fritz the Cat *

The rest of the crew arrived. There were 12 of us including Captain Fritz, his girlfriend and the deck helper, Jose.

Lifting my bike off the Meta Comet with the main boom in pissing rain.

Captain Herve wasn't too spyked.

All anxious to leave. By the time we got our passports, it was getting

late. Finally after sunset we pulled the anchor and set off to sea...

Adios Cartagena - Colombia, see you next time.
It takes nearly 30 hours to get from Cartagena Colombia to the first islands of San Blas.

Our first night at sea was a bit rough. We all took turns at night watch for an hour.

None of us felt sick (yet) I had a few Rum & Coke with Tony to celebrate our departure.

Making me feel a little dehydrated. My night watch turned out to be a good time to get fresh air and drink up some limonade.

The next morning, sea was calm, bikinis were out on deck, guitar jamming, life was good again.

Arriving at San Blas Island at sunset.
Captain Fritz, spear gun in hand, off to get us something for diner... but came back empty hands 3 hours later.
Instead we bought fresh lobster and crabs from locals for only a few bucks each.

Captain Fritz and his lady
Suzanna and Paige working on their tan.
Dream Rider enjoying a pimping boat ride.
Suzanna trying to get us more wind.
Here I am keeping things in balance.
Gabriel reflecting in a calm sea.
The girls
Chilling in the shade.

Pirate ship in the San Blas.
Local mode of transportation.
Argentinian bad navigation... bye bye boat.
Little too much RUM for those boyz.
Golden light in the San Blas
Time for a swim... no waves, but fun to paddle around other sailboats and clear blue water.
Jose cheff'in up a roast!
San Blas locals coming to sell us hand made jewelry... a sneaky shot as they are hard people to

photograph.
Cheers and another feast!
We spent a couple nights anchored in the San Blas.Welcome to the San Blas beauty paradise islands...
Paige being creative, her own island idea...
Dug out local canoe. - Heavy has hell!

Maybe drifted from Japan?
Local Kuna woman selling jewelry they make from little color beads.
Our boat in paradise

Kuna home
Little tropical paradise

Good bye to the crew... good 5 days of laughing, eating and fun adventure.

We arrived in Puerto Lindo Panama after a long night sailing from San Blas. The journey

was rough, sea was big with heavy rain. All windows shut , no air, it was humid and no one could sleep. Sick sickness got a few crew members spending hours piuckin on the side of the boat under heavy rain - No rum was drank that night!!!

Early next morning we continued our last 20 km push to Puertobelo were my bike would be unloaded.

The weather was good until my bike was off the boat. I had just enough time to say goodbye to the crew. As soon as my bags were strapped to my bike came a heavy tropical rain.

Welcome to Panama Caribbean !!! it's rainy season here...

I rode around in town under a torrential rain to find the Aduana so I could import my bike. I was told to go to Colon to do the paper work.

I had no intentions to go to Colon - one of the most dangerous cities in Central America! No thanks... I'm going paper less! No Import... (the paper work is nothing but a waste of time anyways)

I continued on towards Panama city where I would find the Pan-American highway once I crossed over the Panama Canal and ride north to Santiago also hope not to be stopped by the police - with my surfboard strapped on my side! I never know if some countries might not like the surfboard Idea.

The rain finally stopped as I got closer to the Pacific side. No more high mountain pass or landslides, no more military checks.

Flash back memories drifted in my thoughts as I rode with my music blasting in my ipod. Psyked to be back riding in Central America. On a surf mission north...

Last time I was here was in January 2009.