Rio de Janeiro to Itacare Bahia... a 1500 km mission!!
Marcelo and I enjoying the craziness of Rio after another sunset climb of *Via dos Italianos* on Sugarloaf.
First stop 100 kms north of Rio was Saquarema. A very quiet town with great surf, white and beach and blue water.
We spent a couple days soaking some sun and catching a few waves before continuing north along the coast towards Bahia.
Church in Saquarema...
Regina enjoying sunset in Saquarema.
*Finger of God* a granite tower formation near Teresopolis. Another classic climbing area near Rio, unfortunately we didn't make it that way.
scenery along the road...
Just another of MANY church along the way.
This little guy has his own Havaianas flip flops.
Cruising along the coast near Cumuruxatiba Bahia.
Sketchy bridge! you don't want to fall off the planks...and hope they also hold!
Arriving a bit late in Cumuruxatiba, we cruised along the peaceful quiet town to find a posada for the night. Regina found a posada on the internet owned by a Swiss guy. After a bite to eat we went on to find Swiss " Posada E " It looked way out of budget but Regina wanted to say hello to the owner. We had a quick chat with Hans. He told us he couldn't receive us tonight but to come back tomorrow for a beer on our way out. He gave directions to another more affordable posada, thanked him and went on our way.
Posada Albatroz he recommended was perfect. While enjoying our morning coffee, the owner told us that *Hans* the Swiss guy had called to invite us for lunch. So after packing up the bike we were on our way to say hello to Hans. "Let's go have a beer he says, He showed us around his amazing posada, the perfect beach in the front yard. We sat in the shade sipping on cold beer. Regina and Hans were going off in their mother tongue of swiss german, meanwhile trying to catch in a few words and starting to feel the beer kicking in after several rounds. Empty stomach, Hans asked us if we wanted to join him for lunch... " Why Not?"
He brings over another cold beer then disappears in the kitchen. Half hour he comes back telling us lunch was ready. He had prepared us an amazing swiss meal *zueri gschnaetzelts mit roeschti* Meat in a cream sauce with slice potatoes, it was incredible. We emptied our plates and joined Hans and his wife Esther for another cold beer.
Now half way drunk! talking about the road coming up and now 2 pm. Hans asked us if we wanted to stay for the night since it was getting late. We couldn't refuse so we unpack the bike. Relaxed for the rest of the afternoon on the porch hammock of our beach front view bungalow. Not bad.. we manage to ride 3 kms after all today!
The next morning, Hans had prepared us a full buffet breakfast, nice cheeses, cold meat, fruits. We overdosed on coffee and re-packed the bike for the adventure ahead.
...and an adventure it was...never-ending 105km of dirt road, sand, river crossing in a canoe and all that with just a few bucks in the pocket because of the recent lack of ATM machines in the last villages.
thank god we just had rain for a few minutes, we didn’t want to imagine this road with heavy rain..
concentration time... another sketchy bridge.
We stopped next to this little church to snap a quick photo. When I went to take off in the deep sand. My front wheel came to a full stop and the bike went down! next thing I knew, we were both on the ground, sandwiched between the bike and my surfboard. I got up in panic thinking my board was broken. To my surprise nothing happen! My board was in perfect shape and Regina and I didn't get burnt. ( Thanks to God! ) good thing we were next to the church!
Crystal clear beach along the coast near Ponta do Corumbau.
In the Tupi-Guarani language, Corumbau means “ far from everything”. And so we felt...it’s a tiny fishing village between cumuruxatiba and caraivas, isolated from the popular crowded places, mainly due to it’s almost inaccessibility by land. Some 5* hotels already open their doors in this area and it will without doubt just be a matter of time that this little paradise will be developed.
Kids here don't play in a sand box. Mud is cooler on their feet!
end of the road in Ponta do Corumbau.
digging for gold... or trash!
Keeping up with our trail guide.
When we arrived in Corumbau, locals were staring at us like if we were aliens from another world (we are after all) on a loaded bike with a surfboard. They seemed a little confused why we were passing threw their town without any way out. One guy pointed out to us we could ride along the 12 kms of sandy coast to the next town. Riding in deep sand loaded was out of question so we asked if there was any other options.... and there was, a 15 kms detour threw the National park of Monte Pascoal. A couple guys were heading that way to work on a nearby bridge, so they told us to follow them down the sandy path.
Luckily we didn't eat shit in the deep sand trying to keep up to them. We arrived at the construction bridge were a dozen of guys looked at us even more confused the the people in town. " what on hell are these two gringos doing here on a motorbike!!!"
I don't think this road is on our map!
Crossing the bike on the not yet finished bridge was a bit nerve racking. As I unpacked my bike to make it lighter, The guys kept telling me to leave everything on! Ya right... Let's just dropped the bike in the river I thought....
We managed to fill in the gap with wooden planks, 15 feet over the river while Regina was nervously snapping some photos. We made it safely across. Nothing left in our pocket but 5 reals! (just over 2 bucks) not even enough to buy everyone a beer. We felt bad of not having anymore money to give them for their help. " Tudo Bem!!!" they said. A friendly handshake and we were back on track to Caraiva...
and more sketchy bridges...
We finally arrived in Caraiva....
not your regular ferry crossing.
The last stretch of the road to Trancoso with a beautiful sunset.
Unloading the bike in Canavieiras.
Boom box mobile, nearly blew our helmets off!! The sure love to be load in Brazil...
Canavieiras was very nice. Most old colonial buildings were well kept. People were definitely staring at us riding by with a surf board on the side of the motorbike. We stopped to eat an * overpriced! * worst Acai ever, fueled up the bike and continued on our way along the coast...
Church in Canavieiras.
Pit stop for a coconut in Una, not your typical tourist town!
Church in Ilheus Bahia.
The beautiful stretch of perfect beach south of Itacare.